The cheeses of Normandy in- and outside World War II

A glimpse into the culinary world of the region beyond the invasion beaches

A selection of traditional Normandy cheeses
(Photo: Mathilde Boclet)

Our tours are organized around World War II and the stories and sacrifices of the men who fought to protect and restore liberty in Europe. At the same time, however, we also try to give our passengers a (figurative or literal) taste of the regions where the war unfolded: their greater history, their culture and their cuisine. This article departs from our usual themes to give you a brief introduction to the rich historical dairy culture of Normandy, the French region where Allied troops landed on D-Day.
 
The importance of cheese not only in Normandy but all of France is aptly demonstrated by two quotes from two statesmen who played important roles in World War II. Charles de Gaulle, leader of the Free French and post-war head of the French government, once allegedly expressed his frustration with politics by exclaiming "Dear friend, one cannot simply bring together a nation that produces 265 kinds of cheese." (The quote exists in several versions, with different number of cheeses.) Earlier, during World War II, Winston Churchill once expressed his faith in eventual victory with the words “A country that is able to give the world 360 cheeses cannot die.”
  

A selection of cheeses in a hotel on one of our tours
(Photo: Author’s own)

The history of Normandy had long been influenced by the Vikings, the Scandinavian seafarers who ranged along the continent’s shores and beyond while raiding, trading and settling down. (In fact, the name “Normandy” comes from norman, “northman,” another name for Scandinavians.) The Vikings brought along their cattle and dairy culture, laying down the foundations of Normandy’s world-famous cheesemaking.
 
Normandy dairy products are always a hit with our passengers at breakfast and lunch; here’s a compilation of the most famous types with a few links they have to World War II.

An unusual but tasty Normandy speciality: apple and camembert pizza
(Photo: Author’s own)

Camembert is one of the best-known and most beloved cheeses in the world, but not everyone knows that the town of Camembert, where the cheese originates from, is located in Normandy. (In fact, it’s just a few miles from Vimoutiers (Vimoutiers Tiger), the site of one of the last remaining Tiger II wrecks (Tiger II), which we visit on our Highlights of Normandy Tour combined with cheese tasting.) Tradition holds that the soft, creamy cheese was first made in 1791 by local cheesemaker Marie Harel. She was aided by a clergyman called Bonvoust from the Brie region. (In fact, Camembert is decidedly similar to Brie cheese.) The priest was fleeing anti-clerical persecution during the French Revolution, and taught Harel his cheesemaking skills while sheltering with her family.

Authentic Camembert de Normandie
(Photo: Coyau / Wikipedia)

Harel’s daughter followed in her mother’s footsteps, and her husband gave one of her best cheeses to Napoleon III, the grandson of the famous French emperor. Napoleon III grew immensely fond of the cheese and had large quantities of it brought into Paris, making it a popular choice first in the French capital then the rest of the world. An engineer invented a wooden box for the transportation of Camembert in 1890, making it possible to ship the cheese much farther, including to America.
 
Camembert received another boost during World War I: it was a part of French army rations and brought comfort to those trapped in the hell of trench warfare (Inside the World War I Trenches). 
 
A statue of Marie Harel was erected in Vimoutiers, but was decapitated in an Allied bombardment in 1944. A replacement was built in the 1950s, erected in 1953 with funding from cheesemakers in Van Wert, Ohio, U.S.A. on the main square of Vimoutiers, while the damaged old version was placed next to the nearby church. 

The new statue of Marie Harel, the legendary inventor of Camembert cheese
(Photo: Author’s own)

Note that “Camembert” often only refers to the cheese type, but the cheese itself is made elsewhere. Proper Camembert cheese made in Normandy is sold under the Camembert de Normandie label and must be made of the unpasteurized milk of the Normande cattle breed. A pasteurized version is also available for export to countries like the U.S. where unpasteurized cheese runs afoul of import laws.

Normande cows on the beaches of Normandy
(Photo: Author’s own)

A notable local version of Camembert is Coeur de Camembert au Calvados, “Heart of Camembert with Calvados.” A half-ripe block of camembert has the rind scraped off, and is then soaked in Calvados brandy then dipped in breadcrumbs which soak up the alcohol and the moisture.
 
Neufchâtel is less-known, but is one of the oldest types of cheese not only in Normandy but all of France - it’s believed to date back to the 6th century AD. It looks similar to Camembert but has a sharper, saltier taste and a grainy texture unusual in soft-white-rinded cheeses.

Neufchâtel cheese hearts
(Photo: Coyau / Wikipedia)

During the Hundred Years War between England and France (1337-1453), local dairy maidens gifted heart-shaped cheeses to English soldiers as a sign of affection. The tradition stuck and Neufchâtel is typically (but not always) made in a heart shape to this day. The downtown area of Neufchâtel suffered several German bombardments during the Fall of France, one of which created a fire that destroyed most of the area.
 
Pont-l’Évêque was developed in the 12th century by Cistercian monks who had settled to the west of Caen. (Capturing Caen – Part I) (Part II) It was originally called it (and other Normandy cheeses) angelot, “cherub,” and only gained its present-day name, after the Normandy town production was centered on, in the 17th century. It has a creamy, earthy taste and is a great dessert cheese after a meal.

A block of Pont-l’Évêque
(Photo: Mathilde Boclet)

Soft and pungent Livarot is easily recognizable due to its distinctive appearance: it comes in a round block with orangish rind, which is wrapped in three to five rings of dried bulrush (to make it sturdier during transportation). The rings of bulrush around the block resemble the stripes on a colonel’s uniform, giving the cheese the nickname “Colonel.”

The “Colonel” with the distinctive wrapping
(Photo: thecheeseatlas.com)

German Field Marshal Erwin Rommel was seriously wounded during the Battle of Normandy when Allied planes strafed his car, killing the driver and causing the vehicle to crash. A German mechanic saved Rommel and took him to Livarot, where he received first aid.
 
Cheese, butter, cream and crème fraîche (sour cream) from the Norman town of Isigny-sur-Mer are famous Normandy dairy products and have a unique link to World War II. As described in one of our other articles (Donald Duck Goes to War), Isigny’s feudal lords were the ancestors of Walt Disney, and, in fact, the name “Disney” is an anglicized version of the town’s name. Disney was a patriotic supporter of the war effort, and his company has made numerous training and propaganda videos as well as designs for unit mascots. Today, there is a small museum dedicated to Disney next to the town hall.
  

Isigny butter in a Belgian restaurant
(Photo: Author’s own)

During the war, the town itself played a strategic role. About 60% of it was destroyed by Allied bombardment after D-Day, but its location made it important. Situated close to Omaha and Utah beaches and Pointe du Hoc (Pointe du Hoc), it allowed the two American beaches to link up with each other. Additionally, its small port allowed supply ships to unload their cargo via 20 barges. A command post was set up in town, repair work on roads and bridges began as soon as possible, and Isigny-sur-Mer became a busy transport hub with trucks rolling down the narrow streets day and night. Charles de Gaulle personally visited Isigny-sur-Mer a week after D-Day. 

French refugees digging through rubble in Isigny-sur-Mer during World War II
(Photo: worldwarphotos.info)
 

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